B. THE PLANE: FAI M.S. does not recommend that first time contestants design and build their first S/O model plane unless they have a highly experienced indoor modeler carefully guiding and advising them. Failure to follow this advice will result in sub-standard contest performance, much to the detriment of the school team.
     See the “ITEMS FOR SALE” section for a variety of commercial kits and items that will greatly enhance your ability to perform well in competition.

C. NUMBER OF MODELS: Never build or attempt to compete with only one model as your competition plane could get broken or lodged in the gym ceiling structure, thus you are effectively out of the competition.

D. CONSTRUCTING THE MODEL: First, carefully read the manufactures instructions. Second, read the instructions again. Students who reread the instructions are most likely to build models that fly better in competition.

Remember that weight is the enemy. If the completed plane is 5% or more overweight you should learn to fly it, however also try starting over again in an attempt to build a strong but lighter weight plane that is close to the minimum weight required. Your flight times will be extended with a lighter model airplane.

Always cover the model plans with thin polyethylene sheet plastic to protect it from glue and to eliminate the balsa wood parts from sticking to the construction plans. Note: If using Super Glue (CA) please use polyethylene plastic sheeting to cover the plans- "much less sticking You can help yourself to a small, free piece of this plastic outside of the first exit door of Lowes. It may help if you bring a good pair of scissors with you to cut off what you need from the large roll provided.

Use 3/4 inch steel washers to hold parts in place for gluing. Do not use pins through the balsa wood to hold the parts in place. A small bag of washers may be purchased at various hardware stores such as Wal-Mart or Lowes. Pins through balsa of this size will significantly damage the parts.

While there are several glues to choose from, FAI M.S. believes that with proper instructions on the use of super glue (“CA”) this is the best glue to use. (Note: CA WILL STICK FINGERS TOGETHER VERY QUICKLY.) We recommend using MEDIUM viscosity CA when building your models. Also, use THIN or INSTANT CA only for adjustments or repairs. INSTANT will add extra weight when building as it is thin and wicks more deeply into the wood. You can also use Titebond yellow wood glue, or Duco cement ( green tube-Walmart) or Ambroid. When using these cements, it is best to thin them (60% cement-40% acetone) Note that acetone ( some fingernail polish removers) evaporates very quickly so you must store this mixture in a small tightly capped bottle. Dab on the glue to the joint by means of a toothpick. CA can be used more effectively with Glue Bulbs and Glue Bulb Tips or with a toothpick to transfer CA from a small amount on a scrape piece of plastic or waxed paper to the joint to be glued.

When using CA we recommend using LARGE GLUE BULBS AND SMALL GLUE BULB TIPS. In the long run this will save glue and keep the weight of model down. This will result in a stronger, lighter, better looking and more competitive model. Remember to keep the glue bulb small tip pointed upright as this will lessen the chance of “clogging” the small tip.( The tooth pick approach will also work)

If using CA glue (buy at any hobby shop) buy medium viscosity for building and instant or thin only for repair. You will also need “kicker” or accelerator. Do not use the spray nozzle if the bottle has one. Use a thin piece of wood to gently “dab” on the accelerator, or better yet, buy a refill bottle of kicker. (Some shops also have small dispensing bottles with fine tips for sale as an extra.) The procedure is as follows:
1. Put CA on the parts to be glued.
2. Put accelerator on AFTER THE GLUE is applied.

Buy ACCELERATOR in a small or replacement bottle. Try not to buy the bottle with the spray pump, as it is overkill, smells bad, and is more expensive. AFTER putting on a small amount of CA, add a dab of accelerator. Also purchase a small bottle of CA “DEBONDER” to unglue fingers which could accidentally become stuck together during the model building process.

WHEN USING TISSUE FOR COVERING Lay out tissue on wax paper laid on a carpet. Spray tissue with a fine spray and let dry. Repeat this process one more time. Iron (medium heat on a smooth, hard surface) the paper just prior to covering model parts to fully stabilize the tissue. We like this better than “crumpling” tissue. (another approach to stabilize tissue). NOTE: Mylar is by far the best covering material to use for these small, lightweight models.

Remember that WEIGHT IS THE ENEMY! Your plane should not exceed the minimum required contest weight. Make certain that your plane meets all contest rules – S/O will look for ways to disqualify (D/Q) models.

READ AND CAREFULLY FOLLOW THE CONTEST INSTRUCTIONS AND RULES!!

NOTE: " B " Models may also be covered with MYLAR We highly recommend Mylar, as it is more stable than tissue

E. COVERING THE "B" “C” MODELS WITH MYLAR: (See instructions inside the paper tube of mylar.) The “B” or “C” model may also be covered with Japanese tissue or condenser paper (lighter weight). Mylar (Ultra Film) is the lightest and most stable form of model covering. Note this Mylar is very thin and in dry conditions maybe very prone to static charges. Carefully lay out, on a smooth surface, a little more film than is required and at least 1" more than is needed on all sides. Wad up the film into a tight ball, carefully open up the film as carefully as possible, and have two students hold the four corners of the film. After a very light coating of spray adhesive on the model structure, have two students gently hold the four corners of the Mylar and lay it on the surface of the structure to be covered. Note: do not stretch the film tight; as little bit of looseness is good. Now, using an EXTRA-KEEN razor blade, trim the film as close as possible to the wooden parts. Hold the blade at a slight angle to the film and have a helper hold the outside edge of the film to be cut so that is a bit tight and thus will cut easier.
     NOTE See the instruction sheet on applying ULTRA-FILM for the very best way to handle and apply the Mylar

F. THE MOTOR: Contestants should use the very best rubber that is obtainable. The best contest rubber is TAN II, which unfortunately is no longer available for sale. Try to locate an indoor advisor, as they may be supportive enough to give the school some TAN II that is in their personal inventory. The best rubber you can purchase is Tan Super Sport. Note that that while TSS is the best available, it gets tired and we do not recommend more than two maximum winds per motor. (This is also true for Tan II)

G. MAKING THE RUBBER MOTOR: The rules state the maximum weight allowed for a lubricated motor. Weigh motors carefully on a triple beam balance after tying the rubber or motor knot and adding lubricant to the rubber. - (See Knot Tying) You may want to add 1 or 2 o-rings to the motor prior to making the knot, depending on your winding procedure.

H. O-RING: We recommend adding one rubber o-ring to the rubber motor prior to tying the knot. This will make winding the motor much easier. The o-ring will be located at the rear of the motor if you wind the motor while it is attached to the prop shaft. We recommend this procedure for all contestants unless the modeler is very experienced. For those who are very experienced, winding the motor off of the model may be preferred. Two o-rings will be required for this procedure.

I. TYING THE RUBBER KNOT: Knot tying is critical. If not done correctly, the knot will slip or break when winding the motor. (See sketch below) There are several types of knots that can be tied, but when using very good rubber lube, an improperly tied knot will come loose and fail. We feel that the knot shown below, when done with care, is very reliable.

KNOT TYING

Overhand knot

Stopper knot

1. OVERHAND KNOT:
  A. Place two ends of motor together (parallel).
  B. Moisten two ends that are to be tied with saliva or mild soap solution.
    (Most, in not all, fliers just stick the ends in their mouth.)
    Alternative Procedure:   Dip ends in a solution of a small amount of mild dish liquid mixed with water.
C. Carefully tie the overhand knot and while “pulling”, roll the knot between the fingers and pull tight.
D. Repeat Step B for the two pigtails.
E. Tie a Figure “8" knot on each pigtail as close to the first knot as possible.
F. Put rubber lube on knot and rub into knot.
G. Pull first knot tight, then pull the pigtails tight against the first knot.
H. Trim excess pigtail length (1/8" from 2nd set of knots.)
I. Examine knot to insure that the rubber near the knot has not been damaged.

2. SQUARE KNOT:
Repeat Steps “A. - I”, but Step “C” requires a square knot in place of an overhand knot.

G. TRANSPORTING THE MODEL: The finished model must be transported in a dedicated "Hanger". Make a "Hanger" from one or more cardboard boxes so that the model is completely safe during transporting. Make a cardboard support so that the motor stick will rest snugly in a notch during transportation, and will not slid around when moving the Hanger

H. THE RUBBER WINDER: To be competitive, the rubber must be stretch-wound using a geared winder. We highly recommend a 10:1 winder for all contestants. Some contestants may prefer a 15:1 winder. (Proper winding procedure is a key factor to successful competition.) Always count winder turns when winding and be aware of what you are doing. While winding your rubber motor, it is easy to be distracted, it is imperative that you focus on nothing else but your winding procedure A few contestants want to use an electric winder. WE DO NOT RECOMMEND THIS IF THE SCHOOL WANTS TO BE COMPETETIVE.
To be competitive :
   1. The person winding needs to know, at all times, the number of turns that are in the motor.
   2. The person winding needs to be able to feel the torque build up. This can best be done by using a hand cranked winder.
   Careful / knowledgeable winding is vital to maximizing flight times for a given ceiling height. WINDING THE RUBBER MOTOR

1. Be sure the motor is lightly lubricated with a quality rubber lube. (We highly recommend Sil-Slick but you can use STP “Son-of-a-Gun” or green soap and glycerin). Most acknowledge that Sil-Slick is the best lube.

2. Remove the motor o-ring from the rear hook of the model.

3. Have an assistant hold the front of the model by pinching the nose of the model and the propeller hub with the thumb and forefinger of the left hand.

4. With the right hand, the assistant then places a cardboard sheet between the motor to be wound and the model. This will protect the model in the event that the motor becomes loose or breaks during the winding procedure. NOTE: Should the motor snap back to the assistant's hand, the assistant must insure that the model is not dropped or released. THE ASSISTANT’S JOB IS VERY IMPORTANT IN CONTRIBUTING TO THE SUCCESS OF THE TEAM.

5. The motor must be stretched out approximately 8 times its normal length and should be at an approximate 10-degree angle or more away from the plane’s motor stick.

6. Begin turning the crank handle in a clockwise motion to wind the motor. For the first few flights put in approximately 300 turns into the rubber motor (divide the motor turns by the gear ratio to arrive at the number of crank handle turns). After the first flight is completed, and adjustments are made, add an additional 100 turns into the motor. As the last of the 100 turns are finished, the person winding the motor should slowly walk toward the rear motor hook so that the rear o-ring is at the rear motor hook at the completion of the winding process. THE ASSISTANT NEEDS TO BE SURE THAT THE O-RING IS SECURELY IN PLACE ON THE REAR HOOK PRIOR TO RELEASING IT FROM THEIR CONTROL. FAILURE TO EXERCISE DUE CARE COULD RESULT IN A DESTROYED MODEL.
   NOTE: FAI has the best flight rubber in the world but after 2 maximum winds the rubber gets “tired” and will not yield as much energy to the propeller. The motor should be replaced with a new one.

7. Check sections on FLYING and TRIMMING and when comfortable, start adding additional motor turns

8. Carefully make slight adjustments to the model as required. The motor should take over 1200+ turns depending on rubber width and lube.

FLYING AND TRIMMING (ADJUSTING) YOUR MODEL

1. First, make sure that all gym doors are closed and that the air system (HVAC) is shut down. Strong drafts or air currents will not allow proper test flying and adjusting your model. It is best to have a long pole or a stepladder handy to aid in retrieving your model should it get hung up on the basketball hoops, etc. If hung up in the ceiling structure, a helium filled balloon on a long string may be of help. A small, thin stick taped to the top of the balloon may also be helpful.
2. Fly the model and carefully observe the flight. If the model tends to dive towards the floor, check on the location of the CG (center of gravity). If the location of the CG is correct, increase the incidence of the wing so that the leading edge of the wing is a bit higher than the trailing edge. Often, the tail boom may need to be elevated (raised up a bit) or lowered so that the plane will fly smoothly in a very slight nose-up position.
3. The rudder and/or the nose bearing should be set so that the model flies in large circles to the left. (Note: This is opposite to flight directions for outdoor models.) The circles should be approximately no more than 2/3 the width of the basketball playing boundaries. If the model does a slight “Dipsy-doodles” (i.e. power stalls) the leading edge of the wing may be too high and should be lowered slightly.) Be certain the CG is correct. The tail of the model could also be elevated too much. When correctly adjusted, your model should climb smoothly with a slight nose-elevated path.
4. If the model does not climb: The propeller pitch may be too high, try decreasing the pitch. If the rubber motor has had two or more max winds it may be time to use a new motor. Note that the model should land with a fair amount of turns left in the motor. Very few turns left = rubber is too wide or prop pitch is too low. A great many turns left = motor is too week (thin) or the prop pitch is too high.

ORDERING
NOTE: Orders may be sent to FAI online with the use of a M/C or VISA credit card. Web site is: www.faimodelsupply.com. For on-line users, our web site is not up-to-date, but you will find at the very bottom of the page a SECURE ORDER FORM. Our prices refer to “cash” purchases and thus we pass on to card users 50% of the charge that our credit card company charges us. This will add an additional 0.025 times your total bill or +2.5%). You can also send a check in order to avoid the 2.5% credit card charge. Please be aware that there is a minimum S/H charge of $6.00 regardless of how inexpensive your order is. We ship our S/O orders by U.S.P.S. Priority Mail. (3-day delivery) over 3 pounds orders are shipped UPS
FAI M.S. prefers credit card purchases due to the following:
1. Any errors in ordering can be easily corrected; and
2. This eliminates extra charges or credits, thus expediting your order.

FAI MODEL SUPPLY INFORMATION

Reference Material:
An excellent reference book: INDOOR FLYING MODELS
(Alpha to Omega on Indoor Flying) by Lew Gitlow IFMLG $25.00

Prop Info:

BDP12-A & B are under pitched for S/O. Pitch should be increased by about +5 degrees.
SOP95-A & B are over pitched by about 5 degrees and should be de-pitched. For 2007 some think that the pitch should be increased.

To Change the Pitch:

1. With the aid of a good pair of pliers, carefully twist the prop spar that joins the prop hub. Note, this can lead to breakage!

          - OR -

2. Very carefully heat the prop spar where it joins the prop hub and quickly twist the prop blade and spar to change pitch. (Heat the spar by using a birthday candle and two passes over the flame – should you make more that two passes you may need to buy a new prop due to melting of the plastic. Make or purchase a pitch gage.

Warning: To avoid a fire when using a candle, be sure there are no combustibles anywhere near the candle or flame.
– Use extreme caution with this procedure.

SCIENCE OLYMPIAD ITEMS by FAI MODEL SUPPLY

ITEM	SIZE	AMOUNT	NUMBER	PRICE
TAN S.S	1/16"	1/4 LB	C1602	$7.70
TSS	****0.83"	1/4 LB	C8302	$7.85
TSS	3/32"(.093")	1/4 LB	C9302	$7.70
TSS	****0.83"	1/4 LB	C8302	$7.85
TSS	1/8"	1/4 LB	C1802	$7.25
TSS	1/16"	1/2 LB	C8305	$13.70
TSS	****0.83"	1/2 LB	C8305	$13.60
TSS	0.93"	1/2 LB	C1805	$12.80
TSS	1/4"	1/2 LB	C2505	$12.80

****.083TSS IS THE BEST CHOICE FOR 2007 WRIGHT STUFF (CUSTOM CUT)

WINDERS	RATIOS	NOTES	NUMBER	PRICE
SW51	5:1	SO-SO	FAISW51	$5.50
KP10	10:1	BEST	KP10	$18.00
KP15	15:1	OK	KP15	$18.00

RUBBER LUBE	SIZE	---	NUMBER	PRICE
SSL02	2 OZ	SILICONE	SSL02	$3.00
SSL04	4 OZ	FLIP TOP CAP	SSL04	$4.25

SSL Sil Slick Lube is the very best rubber lube that you can purchase Use just a little bit

EXTRA KEEN RAZOR BLADES	1 pk. of 10	VERY SHARP A MUST FOR MYLAR	FAIXKB10	$1.35
GLUE BULBS LARGE	PKG OF 4	FOR CA&KICKER	FAIBL	$1.15
GLUE BULB TIPS (fine)	PKG OF 4	USE WITH BULBS	FAIBT	$1.15
.02"DIA. SHAFT AND BEAD BRG	1 pk.	SHAFT FOR USE WITH BARE PROP	SOSB02	$0.80
.02"DIA. SHAFT AND BEAD BRG	6 pk.	SHAFT FOR USE WITH BARE PROP	SOSB02/6	$4.00
PROP HANGER/BRG	.021" HOLE	1/PK	RHSOB-2	$2.00

**New, lightweight IKARA props. These props will not require shaving. Weight will be approximately 2.0 grams.
NOTE: Prop Assemblies require HOOK AND HANGER

PROP ASSEMBLY	8-7/8"	1/PKG	SOP88A	$3.35
PROP ASSEMBLY	8-7/8"	6/PKG	SOP88A/6	$16.75
BARE PROP	8-7/8"	1/PKG	SOSP88B	$2.80
BARE PROP	8-7/8"	6/PKG	SOSP88B/6	$14.00




BARE PROP requires Shaft and brg also Prop Hanger

HOOK AND HANGER	NEEDED FOR PROP ASSEMBLY	1/PKG	BFHH02	$0.75
HOOK AND HANGER	NEEDED FOR PROP ASSEMBLY	6/PKG	BFHH02/6	$3.75
PROP ASSEMBLY	9-1/2" DIA.	1/PKG	SOP95A	$3.50
PROP ASSEMBLY	9-1/2" DIA.	6/PKG	SOP95A/6	$17.50
PROP BARE	9-1/2" DIA.	1/PKG	SOP95B	$2.90
PROP BARE	9-1/2" DIA.	6/PKG	SOP95B/6	$14.50




The 9-1/2” prop ( cut down) is the standard prop for most 2007 kit manufacturers

PROP ASSEMBLY	12" DIA.	1/PKG	DP12A	$3.75
PROP ASSEMBLY	12" DIA.	6/PKG	BDP12A/6	$18.50
PROP BARE	12" DIA.	1/PKG	BDP12B	$2.95
PROP BARE	12" DIA.	6/PKG	BDP12B/6	$14.75




**Use this Hook/Hanger for all IKARA assemblies (prop, bushing, and shaft)

TEFLON WASHERS	.021" ID	6/PKG	CAM194	$1.25
O-RINGS	.10" IDx.07" TK 90 DURO	5/PKG	OR5	$1.50




**Cut down SOP95 (wide blade) props for High School. This prop should be HOT!
***NOTE: Most of the above props will need to be cut down for S/O models.

PITCH GAGE

NEEDED FOR

REPITCHING

FFPG-2

$6.00




**Pitch Gauge designed to work with prop assemblies. or bare prop with nose bushing

NOSE BUSHING

USE WITH PG

1/PKG

BNB-2

$0.30




**Use this Nose Bushing with “B” props. To adapt to pitch gage

EXTRA KEEN BLADES	RAZOR BLADES	10/PKG	FAIXKB10	$1.35
DOUBLE SPRING SCALE (simple kit)	2 SIDES ez to build	0-1 gm/0-10gm	RHDSS	$31.00
ULTRA FILM (mylar)	BEST FOR S/O	12.4"X10ft	RHUF-2	$9.25
RUBBER STRIPPER	CUT RUBBER SIZE	MAX FLIGHT TIME	RHRS-01	$155.00
CONDENSER PAPER	.014 oz/ 100sq. in.	MORE STABLE THAN JAP TISSUE	RHCP-3	$11.25
JAPANESE TISSUE R,G,BI,W,BK,Y,O	NOT S/O RECOMMENDED	REQUIRES PER-SHRINKING FOR S/O MODELS	JT-R JT-G etc..	$1.25 sheet
INDOOR FLYING MODELS BY GITLOW	GREAT RESOURCE	1 BOOK	IFMLG	$25.00
CONDENSER PAPER	BETTER THAN JAPANESE TISSUE	LIGHTER / STABLE	RHCP	$11.25


RHDSS DOUBLE SPRING SCALE $ 32.00 Easy to build kit assembles quickly needs only screwdriver, wrench and scissors. 0-1 gm / 0-10 gm ranges Good for S/O use at home.

Example SOP88A = Prop Assembly (prop, bushing, bead brg, and shaft)- complete front end assembly ( Typical for all “A” props)

SEE SEPARATE SHEET FOR MODEL KITS.

FAI DOES NOT RECOMMEND THAT FIRST TIME BUILDERS ATTEMPT TO DESIGN THEIR OWN MODELS UNLESS AN EXPERANCED INDOOR MODELER IS GUIDING THE DESIGNING TESTING PROCESS.

Minimum Shipping and Handling on all orders = $6.00 MIN (U.S.P.S. Priority Mail for 3 pounds or less).

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